There is nothing like approaching a harbor via water and Annapolis was no exception. According to the history of Annapolis, it has been known as the “Athens of America” since its earliest days as a colonial capital city. Annapolitans’ enjoy a wealth of cultural activities, gracious hospitality and intellectual stimulation. The small seaport has and continues to attract visitors from around the world who share news and exchange ideas while enjoying the ambiance and exquisite Chesapeake Bay cuisine of the local pubs.
Scott shared memories of sailing here with his family in the 1970s and Kim remembered attending June week at the Naval Academy graduation in 1976. It has been decades since we last visited so we secured an Airbnb in historic Downtown Newport within walking access to all the amenities in the city. With numerous downpours and high humidity, it was also a useful accommodation to catch up on laundry and rest.
Without hesitation this was our favorite landfall so far. While Maryland falls below the Mason Dixon Line, it never left the Union during the Civil War. The tension of slavery and civil rights is ever present in this charming historical city. We learned that the population was and is 30 percent black and many of the prominent figures are publicly honored like Harriot Tubman (slave liberator), Frederick Douglas (social reformer), Thurgood Marshall (1st black supreme court Justice) and Alex Haley (Author of Roots). Slavery remained legal until 1864. Annapolis is a melting pot for social reform where slaves were transitioned to free people after the civil war. The tradition is carried forward today with the Breonna Taylor exhibit that can be seen from space. Annapolis was inspiring with respect to where we have been and how we are evolving as a country.
The Maryland State house is the oldest state house that is still in use today. It was moving to visit the exhibits and room where George Washington resigned his commission as Commander and Chief of the new nation’s military. The event marked the first time that a supreme commander bowed to civilian authority, a fundamental principle in American Democracy.
We were transported to another time by the beautifully maintained buildings that lined the streets dating back to the 1600’s. Each displayed a placard that depicted the period when it was constructed.
The city is juxtaposed with the US Naval academy (established 1845) where we took in plebe summer training and the crypt of John Paul Jones. John Paul Jones was a Scottish-born American naval officer who served in the Continental Navy during the American Revolutionary War. Often referred to as the “Father of the American Navy”, Jones is regarded by several commentators as one of the greatest naval commanders in the military history of the United States. The story of the recovery of his remains from France is epic. You can read about it HERE.
We connected with Irene Hoffman Moffat, a University of Delaware (UDel) roommate of Kim’s who was Scott’s Captain on the UDel Sailing Team. Irene introduced us in 1976 during freshman year at UDel. Despite navigating college age daughters’ schedules and work she was able to carve out time with us. We were treated to a tour of all her favorite local Dive Bars, connected with her former husband Steve, and met her best friend, Barbara. It was fun to enjoy the landfall from a different perspective including Davis Pub (Eastport), The Big Owl, The Jetty (Kent Narrows). The best was seeing Irene and catching up. Irene is an accomplished mariner with 80,000 NM at sea and many racing titles. We spent hours telling stories and laughing. What a treat.
Thanks to reciprocity as members of BYC we enjoyed the most amazing dinner on the 3rd floor of the Annapolis Yacht Club overlooking the harbor. Just spectacular.
We would be remiss if we didn’t mention the southern cuisine that included grits and fried green tomatoes on most menus. We consumed lump crab cakes every night. There is so much more that can be written about Annapolis. All for now!!!
HOLD FAST
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