“Kindred spirits are not so scarce as I used to think. It’s splendid to find out there are so many of them in the world”
Anne of Green Gables by L.M. Montgomery.
After the long night, we arrived in Charleston channel on a crisp December 1st morning. We rounded Fort Sumter, passed the Charleston waterfront, and found our dock space at Safe Harbor Marina Charleston. The largest Safe Harbor Marina on the East Coast housed a stunning array of cruising boats of every style, size, and value. Seeing the familiar faces of Cristy and Maas as we threw the lines to the dock to secure Kailoa was simply fantastic. They watched as we circled and were right there to take our lines.
Cristy and Maas, a sailing couple we met in Beaufort, North Carolina, embody the kindred spirit of cruising culture. In this world, the law of the sea is that everyone helps everyone else. Their instant connection with us and people worldwide is a testament to what it means to live at sea. Cristy, from Madagascar, and Mass, from Australia, have circled the globe several times via sailboat. They work delivering boats and teaching all over the world. We were fortunate to enjoy their company. The oceans are full of boats at any given time, as shown in this screenshot of the Marine Traffic Application, which shows all the ships at sea today on the United States East Coast (pink denotes pleasure or cruising craft). This sense of community, this feeling of being part of something bigger, truly defines this culture.
The forecast of high winds out of the South and the unseasonably cold weather dictated that we spend a few days in Charleston. With no heat and Kim’s back out, Scott checked us into Charleston Place, located in the downtown French Quarter.
Charleston Place is the heart of the city. Its hallways are lined with Christmas trees, and a room-size train platform adds to the festive charm. Families bring their small children to celebrate the season, and visitors can get tickets to sit in a room where snow falls. The Christmas decorations, with their twinkling lights and vibrant colors, amplify Charleston’s warmth and charm, making it a truly magical place for the holiday season.
Using Shannon’s recommendations, we explored the city on foot, allowing our curiosity to guide us. Between work and chores, we spent our days strolling through the streets, visiting museums, and enjoying dining and cocktails. The respite restored our energy and drive to travel another 400 nautical miles to the Bahamas.
Founded in 1670, Charleston, initially named Charles Town in honor of the King of England, was renamed after the end of the Revolutionary War. With a church on every street, Charleston earns its name, the Holy City. We saw a pew where George Washington sat. He was everywhere, visiting all 13 colonies as President. Charleston’s historical significance, with its deep roots in the nation’s founding, is truly awe inspiring and commands respect.
The luxury and opulence of the area overwhelmed us. Most buildings that predate the Civil War are several stories with an English-style design. The only difference is that most homes have a porch on the side, which you don’t see in England. The early colonists from England who built these early dwellings had means. It is not unusual to walk by a home valued at several million in today’s dollars.
At the former slave market, we were confronted with a stark reality that existed here before the Civil War. We learned that 1% of the white population owned enslaved people. Thirteen white men owned more than 500 enslaved people, and half of those owners were from Charleston. The Old Slave Mart Museum depicted the resilience of the enslaved peoples and brought forward their contributions to today’s society. Spending time here and understanding this history brings a deeper understanding of the union’s breakdown and the conflict that led to the birth of the Civil War. It’s a sobering but necessary part of Charleston’s story and one that every visitor should take the time to learn about.
The food culture features everything from southern comfort to the most sophisticated cocktails and entrees in the continental US. We didn’t know it, but Charleston is in its 12th year of being ranked number one by Travel and Leisure Magazine. We had memorable meals at Fig, Hall’s Chop House, Blind Tiger, Citrus (rooftop), Doar, Miller’s All Day, Poogan’s Poarch, and Sweetwater Café. The City’s rich history and diverse culinary scene make it a must-visit destination for any traveler.
Just before wrapping up this post, I received a WhatsApp message from Cristy warning us that there was a weather warning and high winds and waves from Fernandina to Flagler Beach. This confirmed that our delayed departure was prudent. THANK YOU!
We’re deeply grateful to Cristy and Maas and for our time in Charleston. The warmth and hospitality we’ve experienced here have been truly remarkable. Once we see an appropriate weather window, we plan to leave for Saint Augustine, Florida, in the following days.
Kailoa Signing off!
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