Casting Off
In March 2025, we departed from Kailoa in Charleston, SC, and left the United States to embark on a passage from the Galapagos, Ecuador, to the Marquesas, French Polynesia. We had planned this trip a year before and paid to help crew with 59 North Sailing (passage route here). The Sailboat (S/V Falken) was a Farr 65 built for Round-the-World amateur racing. Falken was captained by Andy Schell, with assistance from Emily Caruso (Mate) and Aidan Gray (Navigator).
This begins our account of the passage that includes our notes, excerpts from the ship’s log [Ships Log will be appearing in italics] and messages from home.
We boarded the Falken at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristóbal, Galápagos, Ecuador, at 1:00 PM on Sunday, April 6, 2025. We met Andy, Emily, Aidan, and our fellow crewmates. Almost immediately, the safety briefings began including general safety aboard, life jackets, along with a live man-overboard drill. Our mates were Dennis (Andy’s Dad), Eric (US), Hillary (Australia), Ted (US), Jim (US), and Udo (Germany). Eric, Ted, Udo, and Jim have completed an Atlantic crossing with 59 North, and Jim has logged more miles with 59 North than many of the staff members.
Rule number 1: Stay on the boat. You are essentially dead if you fall off.
After a short course in navigation, spirits were high as we got underway before dark. Andy shared the plan, “As the Galapagos straddle the equator, we’re in the middle of the doldrums and don’t expect any wind for the first 48 hours at sea. So, the plan is to motor north and around Isabela so that we can cross the equator (to say we did it!) and point the bow southwest in search of the southeast trade winds.”
We managed to share bunks next to each other, with Scott on top and Kim on the bottom, located midship by the engine compartment. We also insisted on being on the same shift, and 59 North accommodated us.
Kim had a rough start to the day, experiencing nervous jitters, but managed to calm her nerves before boarding. The Pacific is the most prominent feature on planet Earth. Andy shared that the passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas, about 3,000 NM, is longer than he or any of the boats at 59 North have embarked on. We should also note that before leaving port, Andy asked us to write down our predictions of when we will make landfall (Falken on anchor).
Our first shift was April 8th from midnight to 3 AM. It was a beautiful full moon, and we saw the Southern Cross off our port beam. Our team consisted of Scott, Ted, and Kim. Ted is an experienced sailor from Connecticut with a gentle, steady demeanor. We decided to steer for 30 minutes each (no autopilot during the entire passage), for a total of an hour for each of us. The beginning motor sail was a gentle re-entry to Falken and overnight passage making. With clear skies and calm seas, we passed between Santa Cruz and Santiago and crossed the equator from south to north at 10:40 AM. It was cool to see the GPS change to 000-0000 latitude. We savored the last sights of land covered by black lava flows down to the sea, interspersed with patches of green on Isabella. Our 9-12 PM shift was easy except for the intense heat.
As we crossed the equator, for the second time, a rainbow appeared alongside the sunset around 6 PM. Jim was at the helm, and Andy fired the cannon. The seas were extremely calm and flat, and we could smell the aroma of fish in the air. Some of us heard noise from a blowhole. Emily commented that the smell of fish can indicate the presence of whales feeding. We stopped the engine when Jim made an appearance as King Neptune to mark the initiation of Polliwogs to Shell Back Turtles.
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Excerpt from Ships log:
April 8, 2025, 2111 Ship’s Time | 8 Miles South of Equator, 92º W Longitude | Motoring
All the things happened at the same time this evening. We crossed the equator southbound just as the sun was kissing the horizon to the west. We shut down the engine and fired a cannon salute, and with that dinner was served. King Neptune would have to wait until after we ate.
Before dish duty though, he appeared with his fellow Shellbacks – his Queen (Kim), his Royal Barbour (Scott), Doctor Doom (Ted) and Davy Jones (Udo). The Pollywogs in the crew – Hilary, Dennis, Erik, Aidan and me – would be read their crimes against the deep by Davy Jones and sentenced by Neptune himself (Jim, dressed in full Neptune regalia). Emily drove the boat, which didn’t require much driving given that we’d switched the engine off for the ceremony and were flat becalmed, literally drifting in circles.
Punishments included “cleansing of the head with a bucket of salty water;” a dose of Doctor Doom’s secret elixir; the singing of a shanty; and in my case, a “haircut” from the Royal Barbour. This all happened by the light of the moon, as the sun had long ago set while we were eating Emily’s delicious chicken & noodle stir-fry. At the conclusion, all of us Pollywogs were accepted into King Neptune’s realm and joined the other Shellbacks. Job done!
FALKEN continues burning fuel and steaming southwest. We’re hoping to catch the edge of the SE’ly trades at around 3º south, which is another 24+ hours from here. So far we’re a tank-and-a-half down on diesel, with six-and-a-half remaining, so I’m not yet concerned. Once the trades fill-in, it looks to be steady, but 3,000-miles is a looooong way if the wind doesn’t fill in! That’s the doldrums for you.
Until tomorrow, HOLD FAST.
//Andy
Messages:
Chris McMillan, Love the Barbour and the Queen!! They’re the best and tell we miss them tons safe travels and prayers up for wind! Cheers! – Moby, Maura and the rest of the Kailoa crew
Hello Sailors
Sending well wishes for winds to come and push those sails. I can’t imagine what it must be like coasting in the big sea! To the wave roll along when there is no wind or is to calm like a lake. I think of the crew and my two loved ones who are with you! We have had snow and yes, another day of snow, winter is hanging on in New England.
I am curious if you have seen any whale’s or dolphins, fish schools? A land creature I just can’t imagine what it’s like on the big wide-open Ocean, perhaps one day I will get the opportunity, but for now I live for your blogs and tales at seas. Sending well wishes to all the crew and hope everyone is well and in good health and spirits! Happy birthday Dad what a birthday to remember.
With admiration and respect… Amanda Groff
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