“Leave only footprints, take only memories”
~ Chief Seattle
Our final days in the Exumas were nothing short of unforgettable. After departing Farmers Cay, we sailed to Staniel Cay, where we engaged in various activities. One highlight was visiting Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a legendary spot for cruisers worldwide. We arrived mid-day at a lively restaurant filled with music and happy patrons. It is here that cruisers gather and tell their stories of travel. The venue feels like home with the burgees of visiting cruisers hanging from the ceiling and the walls decorated with local artwork. While seated at the bar, we met a couple of fellow cruisers from Lunenburg, MA, and Ocracoke, SC, who invited us to visit their boat later that night. Our conversation started at the Yacht Club and continued that night when we exchanged our travel notes and found companionship in folks we just met.
No trip to Staniel Cay is complete without a visit to Pig Beach, where over a dozen pigs greeted us, eagerly looking for treats. The pigs came in all sizes, shapes, and colors, from Dumpling, the impressive 500-pound-tan-colored pig, to tiny brown piglets that weighed under 5 pounds. We learned about the islander’s dedication to caring for these pigs with food, water, and medical attention. The swimming pigs approached our dinghy with open mouths, hoping to receive a snack. With a bit of practice, we could toss the carrot in their open mouth.
We also enjoyed one of the best snorkeling adventures of the trip at Thunderball Cave, the filming location of the 1965 James Bond Movie “Thunderball,” starring Sean Connery. During low tide, you can swim under a rock arch into a large cathedral with three openings to the sky. Inside, you are surrounded by dim light and dozens of fish. We returned twice to test our underwater photography skills, achieving marginal success.
On Super Bowl Sunday, we attended the island-wide barbecue at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club featuring ribs, pulled pork, chicken, fish, corn, green beans, salad, rice, macaroni, and lemon cake—it was an unforgettable experience! The excitement of the second annual Wahoo fishing tournament added to the atmosphere, with the prize-winning Wahoo weighing in at over 70 pounds.
The following day, we set out at dawn and confidently arrived in Cambridge Cay just before Kim’s 10 a.m. work call. After she completed her work commitments, we seized the opportunity to explore the area. The natural beauty of Cambridge Cay and Bell Island left us in awe; the water shimmered in every shade of blue imaginable. We snorkeled at the famed Aquarium Point, encountering countless fish and even a sea turtle. A brief dinghy ride led us to a secluded cove with breathtaking watercolors.
That evening, we grilled Scott’s favorite dinner—steak—while enjoying the stunning sunset and the nearly full snow moon rising. As we reminisced about our time in the Exumas, it became clear that choosing a favorite spot was nearly impossible due to the unique appeal of each Cay. We cherished Farmers Cay for its authentic Bahamian fishing village ambiance. We placed Warwick Wells and Cambridge Cay in the Land and Sea Park at the top of our list for their natural beauty, seclusion, and crystal-clear waters. Stocking Island and George Town quickly claimed the title for the best beach bars, while Staniel Cay emerged as the top contender for activities and the iconic Yacht Club. We fantasized about a return visit.
Tomorrow, we will make the 60 NM passage across Exuma Sound, around Cape Eleuthera, through Davis Cut, and across the bight to Governor’s Harbor, fully aware that leaving the Exuma’s will be a bittersweet farewell.
Kailoa Signing off!
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