“There’s a rhythm to life in the Bahamas.”
– Johnny Depp
On our last day at Warderick Wells, we spotted three large eagle rays with distinct spots, one having a wingspan as wide as Kailoa’s beam. We were captivated by these majestic creatures, their heads resembling bird bills, as they flapped their wings in a graceful underwater flight. What a treat!
From Warderick Wells, we set off for the Black Point settlement, rumored to have excellent anchoring spots. A quick internet search revealed to us that Black Point is the second-largest settlement in the Exumas, with a population of around 400 to 500 residents. Besides the cruising guide, there was very little information available about Black Point, other than that it boasts the cleanest laundromat in the Bahamas and fresh coconut bread and cinnamon buns from a one-room bakery. Most of what we learned about Black Point came from word of mouth. It’s common to see island women sitting on their porches, weaving palm leaves that are ultimately intended for export to the straw market in Nassau.
Unlike many other landing spots that feel manufactured, we experienced Black Point as a genuine settlement. The locals lived in modest cottages scattered along the main road. Naturally, there was a school, a police station, and a small grocery store that entirely lacked fresh produce, but no hotels or resorts were present. A few restaurants offered limited menu options since there hadn’t been food deliveries in several days. Lorraine ran two of the best restaurants. Black Point is a place where things move at their own pace. While cruisers are welcomed, we don’t get the sense that their economy depends on us.
The charm is that everyone knows each other, people talk with one another in the streets, there is a happy vibe here. We met a cruising family of five on Karen Margrethe (Dan and Annemette plus 3), on a Bavaria 38. The family had spent the last year sailing the Viking Route from Denmark. We also re-connected with Warren and Cindy on Azura a Moody 48. We initially met them in Hampton, then in Beaufort, in Warderick Wells, and now in Black Point. This is a reminder that a community of sailors here keeps tabs on each other.
One highlight was meeting Bunker, a large, sturdy man who made his living with his strong hands. His broad smile, open heart, and hearty laugh captivated us right away. We saw him several times at the Black Point Yacht Club, which he built during COVID-19 in 2020. We learned that he was born in Little Exuma and has five children, most of whom live in Nassau, as well as seven grandchildren. He talked about Rolle Town, his birthplace, and encouraged us to visit the Tropic of Cancer on Little Exuma. Bunker explained that the Exumas are shielded from most hurricanes due to the prevailing wind currents at 23 degrees latitude, which divert hurricane paths away from the islands. He is a Lakers fan and owns a Boston Whaler that he uses to visit his family in his hometown. The trip takes about an hour over the banks.
Memorable moments included the walk to Oven Rock, the blowholes, and the small beach, where we saw numerous stingrays feeding in about six inches of water. The amount of trash was disheartening, and Kim circled the blowhole twice to collect debris.
Worried about strong shifting winds, we were relieved to find 1 to 2 feet of solid sand holding at Black Point Harbor. We felt secure during our three days at anchor, even with the wind changing from the south to the west and then to the north.
Over the last several decades, we have raised a family and held demanding jobs. With these responsibilities came a high-stress lifestyle filled with commitments that we barely managed to keep up with. As the Chief Operating Officer of a biotech firm, Scott traveled extensively for work, enduring numerous company shakeups and transitions. Kim served as a Director of Water Resources Programs, first as a consultant and then with a state program. Our daughters played on regional soccer teams, each spending four years playing soccer at their respective colleges. Naturally, we made every effort to attend as many games as possible.
Additionally, we experienced a challenging 15 years of long-distance caregiving for Kim’s parents, who passed away in 2017 and 2020. The dysfunction in elder care in the United States took a toll, especially during the pandemic years. After decades of rushing from one meeting to the next, one event to another, and one commitment after another, the speed of life is finally slowing down. Here, the pace is entirely refreshing. Dinner arrives when it’s ready. No one is tapping their feet or complaining to the waitress about slow service. Instead, people converse with fellow patrons, and compare notes about the wind forecast and favorite anchorages. Everyone embraces the rhythm of life in the Bahamas.
Kailoa Signing off!
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