“I am always doing that which I cannot do so that I may learn how to do it.”
Pablo Picasso
After a delightful five days in Great Harbour in the Berry Islands, we decided to head further south. Reviewing the weather forecast from January 10th to January 12th, we planned a three-part journey from the Berry Islands to the top of the Exumas. Over the next three days, the wind was expected to shift 360° from the northeast, turning clockwise back to the northeast over 48 hours (see table for wind forecast), and then calming for a few days. We aimed to take advantage of the wind shifts during these three segments to carry us to our destinations. In unfamiliar waters and still honing our anchoring skills, we anticipated that this three-part journey would push us out of our comfort zone.
On the first leg, the northeast winds shifted to the east, creating a beautiful 33 nautical mile journey from Great Harbour to Alders Cays in the Berries. We arrived at the Cay in the early afternoon on January 10th. The islands were nearly deserted, with only a few buildings visible. We anchored behind Alders Cay to enjoy protection from the southeast in about 10 feet of quality anchoring bottom just off the western shore. This marked our first night at anchor since leaving Chesapeake Bay last August.
Understanding that the wind speed would rise and shift south at night, offering less protection, Scott set multiple alarms to warn us if the boat drifted into shallow waters. It was a stunning night. Beneath a nearly full moon, we saw Jupiter, Mars, and several constellations. The brightness of the moon dimmed many stars, so we used an app to help identify the constellations Orion, Pegasus, and Gemini above us.
Tired from the passage, Scott took the first watch around 9 PM and checked the anchor every two hours. On cue, with the wind shift, all three chart plotters and his Aqua Maps alarm were activated at 3 AM. Kailoa moved about 250 feet before resetting her anchor. The alarms were so loud that Kim thought the police were boarding us. Kim kept anchor watch from 3 AM onward to allow Scott to sleep. We pulled anchor at about 6 AM and headed for Nassau.
During the second 42 NM leg, we aimed for an anchorage at Rose Island, east of Nassau. Our plan was to anchor at Great Bottom Harbor to avoid the congestion of Nassau, the most populated island in the Bahamas. As predicted, winds significantly increased from the southwest, making for a sporty ride with seas of 5 to 6 feet and gusts into the 20s. With a double-reefed main and a single-reefed jib, we sailed through the blue water, crossing depths of nearly 10,000 feet as we skirted the Tongue of the Ocean. Traveling at 8 to 9 knots, we reached our waypoint outside Hanover Sound around noon. Concerned about high seas and a predicted wind shift to the west, which would leave Bottom Harbor unprotected, Scott made a few calls to secure a slip at Nassau Harbor Club Marina in East Nassau. We weighed several options before settling on Nassau Harbor Club Marina. Palm Marina was to the south, but we were worried about the surge from the southeast winds, the narrow channel, and many other options were simply too expensive. We had initially planned to stop at Chubb Cay; however, as of January 1, 2025, a $50,000 club fee was required for access. Accommodations are changing rapidly in the Bahamas as many marinas opt for high cost amenities to cater to millionaire and billionaire clientele.
The sighting of an Eagle Ray rewarded us as we pulled into the slip. After securing Kailoa, we enjoyed some snacks at Latitudes and visited an iconic restaurant known as the Poop Deck. Scott’s brother Sandy, an international sail racer, had celebrated many wins at this place, so we had to go. We savored a new treat, Guava Duff, a pudding-like cake soaked in liquor with a cream sauce. In 24 hours, we had gone from little evidence of civilization to a Bahama-style city on the water. We opted for a two-night layover to optimize bright sunlight, light winds, and optimal visibility conditions during the third leg. We had a restful and relaxing two nights as we began to study the details of our passage to Highbourne Cay.
Highbourne Cay, located in the Exuma Island chain, is about 42 nautical miles southeast of Nassau and is known for its good anchorage, excellent snorkeling, and a small but popular marina. During the third passage, we needed to navigate the shallow coral heads on Yellow Bank, White Bank, and Middle Ground. In this area, mariners must rely on both visual observations and charts. We marked the banks on the chart plotter and set off at 8:30 on January 13th during an outgoing high tide. We immediately noticed the full moon’s effect on the depth. On January 13th, the full “Wolf Moon” will rise, and we observed that the depths were one to two feet deeper than those indicated on the charts, even accounting for the tide. We were mesmerized by the calm, shallow, aquamarine water, which contrasted sharply with the choppy blue seas we encountered on the trip to Nassau. At this moment, we are six miles offshore and have Highbourne Cay in our sights.
We will be looking at the “Wolf Moon” tonight.
In closing, we are sharing this quote from Kim’s sister Julie in England:
“We are both looking at the same moon, in the same world. We’re connected to reality by the same line. All I have to do is quietly draw it towards me.”
Haruki Murakami
Kailoa Signing off
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